Bartop Arcade Templates10/26/2021
This layout (or an almost identical one) is used in most arcade machines and controllers in Japan.Welcome to part two of my six-post long Arcade Bartop DIY tutorial. 5mm more to the right, and the joystick is in the higher position), Net City, and Versus City cabinets for player 1 or single player. This is a precise diagram of the Sega layout used in Astro City, Blast City (the bottom middle-finger button is.
![]() Bartop Arcade Templates Professional Jigsaw YouI used a Makita 4351FCT, which is arguably the best semi-professional jigsaw you can get for under 200$, but almost any jigsaw will be able to do the job, as long as it can do 45-55 degrees cuts. The screws are materials, while the screwdriver is a tool the wood is material, the jigsaw is a tool the paint and primer are materials, while the brushes are tools and so on.That said, here’s the list of the required tools for putting our project into life: Before starting with the list, it’s important to understand the main difference between Raw Materials and Tools: to put it in short words, we’ll call raw materials the building parts what will become part of the cabinet, and tools the equipment that we’ll use to craft it – and that we’ll be able to use for other projects later on (unless we break them). Part 6 of 6: Configuring the Software (Raspberry PI & Retropie)In the first part of this post we’ll enumerate all the required tools we need to fullfill our task: once done, we’ll dive into designing and prototyping our cabinet.To build the Bartop you’ll need a fair amount of DIY tools: in the first part of this post we’ll briefly introduce the most important of them, leaving aside the obvious stuff – such as screwdrivers, hammers, sandpaper, brushes and so on. Part 1 of 6: Introduction & Raw Materials Histogram intersection similarity python.I strongly suggest the Wolfcraft EHZ series or any similar clamps that can be used with a single hand.Do not let the plastic fool you… these are the best clamps I’ve ever used! A pair of Clamps (or more) to block the wood parts during the wood cutting phase – and also later on. If you don’t like the hole saws you can also use a Forstner Drill set, but they’re way more expensive and they also produce an insane amount of sawdust.This cheap hole saw kit is not the best BOSCH product I’ve ever seen, yet it did a fair job. I got this set from Bosch which had all the required sizes and performed quite well. You’ll need these (or something like that) to make the holes for the joystick controller (19mm), buttons (25 & 29mm, depending on the joystick set you picked), for the stereo speakers (44mm) and for the back-side door (51mm). Nothing fancy here, you’ll just have to do some guiding holes for the screws and the hole saws.A standard drill with some assorted wood bits will be more than enough.Gorilla Wood Glue or other similar wood-specific quick-setting glue. Although not required, it will be very useful when you’ll have to put the (50+) screws on: get one.Here’s a great BOSCH product! The IXO V screwdriver is the real deal… it even comes with a micro-USB charger kit! Safety Glasses and Protection Gloves to reduce the risk of hurting yourself: do you a favor and do not underestimate your safety – you’ll have a lot of work to do, and they will greatly help during many risky tasks – especially the wood-cutting part. Rubber Hammer to put the T-Molding on its track.Get ready for some (insanely frustrating) Whack-a-Molding time… soon enough! The Dremel is an awesome modding tool and will definitely save you a lot of time, other than improving the overall quality of your work – go get it in case you don’t have one already: you’ll hardly regret that.The Dremel: highly addictive once you get used to it.Wait a minute, didn’t I say I would take them for granted?That’s about it with the tool: if you’re at least a bit into DIY, you’ll most likely have most of them in your arsenal already. Screwdrivers, brushes, sandpaper and so on. Wire Stripper, Welder and Insulating Tape for the electric / power setup. With that in mind, I went for a chassis of 530mm width and 640mm height.Here are the precise measures of all the single wood-cuts:This document can be downloaded in PDF format by clicking here. Therefore, I took an existing design found with Google, launched Inkscape and came up with this:Not bad, right? It’s a rather simple design, yet somewhat reminiscent of the original Centipede inspiration… On top of that, it was completely original: I would build a cabinet (well, actually two cabinets) with an unique shape! Specs & MeasuresWhen I worked on the above design I was thinking about a two-player cabinet, hence I knew that I needed at least 50 centimeters width to accomodate two joystick & button sets. If you remember the Centipede cabinet (recently saw on Halt & Catch Fire and Stranger Things 2), you already know what I mean: Cameron Howe Playing Centipede in Halt & Catch Fire Season 1 Mad Max playing Dig Dug – towards a guy who plays Centipede – in Stranger Things 2.To be completely honest, Stranger Things 2 wasn’t out yet on Netflixwhen I worked on these cabinets, so you can imagine my surprise when I saw it….Anyway, the Centipede cabinet is a full-size cabinet and I wanted to build a Bartop: since I couldn’t find a pre-made Bartop design set that could give that ’70s look & feel, I had to create an original shape to make something that could be somewhat vaguely similar. There are a lot of great templates available for Arcade Bartops, but none of them had that mid-70’s look I wanted. Designing the CabinetI did a lot of research before choosing the cabinet(s) shape: the first thing I did was to use Google and look at what other people did before me. Bartop Arcade Templates Free To ChangeYou’re free to change this, as long as you know what you’re doing – and re-calculate the sized accordingly. BACK HIGH: this piece will have the two hinges and the magnet lock mentioned in part 1, that will allow it to act as a “back-side door” which will be used to operate within the cabinet We’ll call it Back-side Door from now on.The variable thickness is mostly a matter of choices: I made these choices because I wanted the cabinet to be as robust as possible, without being too heavy: with this goal in mind I did chose a 15mmthickness wood for the heavy-duty structural parts (top, bottom, front, sides, monitor support) and a 10mmthickness for the remaining pieces. BACK LOW: this piece will have a hole for the power plug. FRONT LEFT and FRONT RIGHT: these two pieces will be used to accomodate the monitor, which will be put within them. There are four pieces that need an explanation to better understand their role. Free unused psn codesI personally didn’t do that, because I didn’t find that thickness difference relevant enough for the prototype – I just took it into account.Here’s the prototype I built with a ruler, a cutter, a pair of scissors, some spare cardboard from a 60″ LED TV and a decent amount of parcel tape:Pretty decent, isn’t it? It took me roughly 30 minutes to build it up from scratch. This prototype helped me a lot to understand how the cabinet would look, feel and perform in real life: its actual size, if it could accomodate enough space for two people to play side by side, and even if the playing/viewing angles was right for the screen I did have in mind or not. I highly suggest to do that, even if you’re planning to use the above designs without any significative change, to avoid potential mistakes and to build the required experience before building the real deal: that said, if you’re confident enough in your modeling, cutting and measurement skills, you’re free to skip that part and proceed to the Part 3.The first thing to consider when building a cardboard prototype is that the cardboard thickness ( 2-3mm or so) will be much smaller than the wood thickness you’ll have to deal with when building the real deal: you can either ignore the difference or act accordingly by using two pieces of cardboard layered together for each piece, in order to emulate the wood thickness. Building a Full-Scale PrototypeBefore cutting the actual wood, it would be highly advisable to build a full-scale, 1:1 cardboard prototype to be sure that the size and the shape of the cabinet are really accurate.
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